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Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland
Jochen Ratzenberger has, since the mid-1990s, reclaimed his place among the region's Mittelrhein best. A renaissance seemed to be underway with the 1997 vintage, and this was underscored by the 1998 wines. And after a good showing with the 1999s, the vintner proved that it's also possible to turn out presentable wines in off years, like 2000. While it is apparent that father and son had to battle the rigors of the weather, the Rieslings are by all means crisp, though somewhat less lively than usual. The best bottles are the fruity Spätlese and an Eiswein. Furthermore, the Jahrgangssekt has been recognized as one of the best German sparkling wines. The estate itself has several gems as well, including a cross-vaulted cellar and two stylishly appointed vacation apartments.


Riesling grapes account for three-quarters of the growth at Estate Ratzenberger. The balance consists of 15 percent Pinot Noir, a quite high proportion for the Mittelrhein growing region, and 5 percent each Pinot Gris and Müller-Thurgau. Ratzenberger's vineyards are located in Steeg (for the St. Jost "Einzellage") and Bacharach (for the Wolfshöhle and Posten "Einzellagen"). After giving a good showing with his 1998 vintage, Jochen Ratzenberger bettered that with the 1999s, particularly his "Edelsüß" wines (so-called for their older, sweet, Sauternes-like quality). Ratzenberger proved his mettle with the problematic 2000 harvest: while the bottlings of other Bacharach estates were generally weak, Ratzenberger's wines showed no decline in quality from the 1999 vintage.



WDR online
Pluspunkt für Weinkenner
Now here's what you do: take a peek into the unknown corners of the vast Riesling domain. For example, go ahead and try a mature Riesling. Especially in the fruity varieties, you're sure to discover nuances you can't expect from a sweet, tightly wound, young version. It was once thought that there was no more to be said about Rieslings, but they're still proving to be the subject of fairly intense discussion. Fortunately, vintners like nothing better than to talk about their own wines. So pay a visit, listen closely, and cheers!


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